NZ filmmakers explore the centuries-old shops of old Kyoto
Filmmaker Robin Greenberg and her Kyoto-born project partner, Yoko Couling, spent a week exploring Kyoto’s winding backstreets and hidden alleys, seeking out the city’s centuries-old, family-run shops for an upcoming project. Their research saw the pair interview the current generation of shopkeepers who have kept their businesses afloat, resisting the tide of mass production and consumerism. In this article, Robin shares their experiences and insights from this journey.
Robin and Yoko were joined by Yoko's daughter Amy Couling (right), a Christchurch-based artist, who served as a second interpreter
During ages in which the aristocrats sank into their own decadence and the samurai fought their way to destruction, it was the common people of Kyoto, the merchants and craftsmen, who kept many of the arts and crafts, customs and traditions of their civilization alive.
Diane Durston (‘Old Kyoto’, 1986 / 2nd edition 2017)
Arriving in Kyoto for the first time since visiting as a child, I experienced a mix of familiarity, enchantment and excitement.
Once Japan’s capital for over 1,000 years, Kyoto, having miraculously escaped the destruction of World War II, now represents the country’s ‘cultural capital’, a bustling metropolis steeped with ancient history and culture, natural beauty and effusive charm.
Serendipitously, our research trip coincided with the height of Kyoto’s magnificent autumn foliage, with streets lined with glowing golden ginkgo trees and hillside temples surrounded by canopies of flaming red Japanese maple trees, a feast for the eyes and spirits.
From morning until sunset, my Kyoto-born Christchurch-based project partner Yoko Couling and I made the most of our all-too-short precious week in Kyoto.
Robin: "Navigating the web of narrow winding streets and subways, we sought out the traditional old shops to lay the groundwork for a future documentary"
Navigating the web of narrow winding streets and subways, we sought out the traditional old shops to lay the groundwork for a future documentary.
Each shop welcomed us warmly, its shopkeepers serving as the proud custodians of businesses that have often welcomed customers for centuries.
The definition of an “old” Kyoto shop, according to the Kyoto-Shinise no kai (Kyoto Company Century Club), is that it has been in operation for over 100 years and upholds family business values, traditional techniques and business methods.
Of the more than 1,900 current businesses with this special status, some were established over 300 or 400 years ago. And these continue to underpin the fabric of Kyoto’s way of life.
In 2019, Yoko first approached me with an idea for a film inspired by Diane Durston’s seminal book ‘Old Kyoto’ (1986, 2nd edition 2017), for which she’d served as research assistant and facilitator. This immediately captured my imagination!
Since the publication of Diane Durston’s seminal book ‘Old Kyoto’ in the 1980s, approximately 50 percent of the featured shops have closed down
Since the book’s publication, approximately 50 percent of the featured shops have closed down.
Based in Portland, USA, Diane kindly agreed to serve as project advisor. Over many months, we had regular Zoom meetings for brainstorming and planning.
Diane’s exceptional knowledge and networking support proved instrumental to the success of our trip. Her enduring relationships with a number of the old Kyoto shopkeepers and personal introductions opened the door to some pre-arranged meetings for us. We also created a shortlist of other shops, grouped by neighbourhood, that we hoped to visit, if possible, without appointments.
Meeting and spending time with a diverse range of traditional Kyoto shopkeepers was an honour. Since Diane’s book was published nearly 40 years ago, the next generation has picked up the baton from their parents, whom Diane had originally interviewed.
Over bottomless cups of Japanese green tea, it was a privilege to hear first-hand about their experiences, challenges and aspirations – and to glimpse behind the scenes of their centuries-old family businesses.
Robin: "Meeting and spending time with a diverse range of traditional Kyoto shopkeepers was an honour."
The enchanting old shops we visited included ancient ryokan (inns), restaurants and shops featuring Japanese incense, tea, fans, combs, brushes, tatami mats, and bamboo blinds, to name a few.
Though the businesses varied widely, the shopkeepers all shared similar challenges for their shop’s survival (including the original historic building) – and their absolute dedication to ensure the continuity of their family legacies.
Their perseverance, commitment and innovation impressed me greatly. And we were fortunate to meet several of their sons and daughters poised for succession.
Diane’s wise advice to allow extra time between our meetings was a godsend, as some meetings lasted two to three hours.
Since many of these were conducted in Japanese (in Kyoto dialect), Yoko’s translation skills and intimate knowledge of local customs were invaluable.
We were also indebted to Amy Couling (Yoko’s daughter), a Christchurch-based artist, who decided to join our travels of her own accord and served as a second interpreter. This proved vital for keeping up with our back-to-back meetings. Moreover, it was very encouraging to hear the shopkeepers express genuine enthusiasm for the documentary film project and to have their interest in participating in the future.
Robin: "The enchanting old shops we visited included ancient ryokan (inns), restaurants and shops featuring Japanese incense, tea, fans, combs, brushes, tatami mats, and bamboo blinds, to name a few."
As a filmmaker, despite the ease of online communication options, in-person meetings are irreplaceable, especially for cross-cultural projects.
Whenever possible, I try to meet my characters/interviewees before filming because I feel it’s foundational for building trusted relationships and deepening the film – and provides an opportunity to gain insights into filming locations and logistics.
In a world where there is such great emphasis on mass-produced items and modern conveniences, and where price over quality often prevails, this intimate introduction into the world of traditional old Kyoto shops – and the extraordinary efforts and dedication of the shopkeepers and their families – has been nothing short of inspirational and will remain the driving force behind the next steps to develop the future documentary project.
The Foundation's Arts Programme brings Asia into the mainstream of New Zealand arts by inspiring New Zealand arts professionals to grow their connections and knowledge of Asia. It also supports the presentation of Asian arts in partnership with New Zealand arts organisations and events.
Our Arts Practitioners Fund provides support for experiential opportunities for individual New Zealand-based arts practitioners to deepen artistic and professional connections with Asia, including residencies, work placements, research tours and exchanges.
